Dear womyn,
Last I wrote you from Delhi, where I organized the final stage of this trip with L. and D.. In early February I took a 3-day train to Kerala. A beautiful state, they call it 'God's country' for a reason. Lots of Coconut Palms (my heart jumps for joy seeing myself already weaving all these hats, baskets and birds for presents!), and many working elephants on the streets in hot and steamy weather. Kerala's social system is unusual in many ways. Some matrilineal leftovers; it is a communist state in a democratic country; a large Christian population which contributes with it's schools to 100 % literacy rate. Its suicide rate is also the highest in the country. Some contribute that to literacy in the way that people are just able to read enough to get sucked into consumerism and then cannot handle the stress that goes along with having debts to pay to the money lenders.
S. was to be my guide and translator. She works for Sakhi, the women's centre. She also just finished her degree in law and hopes to open her free legal aid for women in this town of Trivandrum. An American woman is doing research here on communism and is renting this lovely big, luxurious apartment (black marble floors, 3 bedrooms) for a whole US$ 100 (4 times the usual). She is rarely here, so S. is happy to care take it, as it is almost impossible to find an apartment for a single woman.
I also met a Canadian (Vancouver) born Indian here, who is doing research on (a large number of) lesbian suicides in Kerala. I barely managed to finish reading some 15 articles on those suicides. So very sad, those accounts of mostly 19 and 20 year old women dying in pairs, on a rock in the ocean with poison, tying themselves together and jumping off cliffs, etc. I met one lesbian couple (older) who consider it absolutely essential for their survival to live 'underground'. They thought only an outsider could do this kind of research and they encourage her not to go public until she leaves the country.
The Christians are considered quite progressively minded and they rented their hall to us. Therefore we had a blond, hippie looking Jesus smiling upon us during the workshop.
We had a great group: 2 nuns, students, activists and 2 Swedish girls doing a practicum in social work at the women's centre.
Just before the workshop we hear of the outbreak of communal violence in Gujarat, a northern state, which is still reeling from loosing 200 000 people in the earthquake last year.
The reason for the violence is a religious site that the Hindus claim to be theirs, but the Muslims built a mosque there in the 1940s. Years ago they demolished the mosque in a riot where many lives were lost. Now the fundamentalists want to lay the first stone to build a temple there. Some of these Hindus were on their way thru Godhra (Gujarat) in a train yelling insults at Muslims living there. 2 days later, in retaliation, the Muslims torched that train. This resulted in an "orgy of violence" as the newspapers called it. The government is right wing Hindu, therefore the police was very slow to respond (not against their own people?).
Nationwide Bandhs (sort of like no work orders) were called. In Kerala it happened to be on the 2nd day of the workshop. No public transport, no shops open and fear of violence. We postponed the workshop. Only the Swedish women, not knowing what was going on ... walked all the way to the hall, wondering why there was no transport. 2 died that day in Trivandrum and many injured in a bout of senseless violence, so far away from Gujarat. I had laryngitis and was glad not to have to talk that day.
When there was time S. would take me around on her scooter. I covered my head, ears, nose and mouth with a cloth, Indian style, to protect my cold. I loved being driven along the ocean, being shown Kovalum beach, where all the tourists go in southern Kerala, and got to see the sunset beach where the Indian families go. Indians usually don't know how to swim, but the women go in knee deep in their saris and enjoy the waves with their kids and men. Lots of fun and laughter.
Few days later I returned to Auroville where I was invited to stay with my Dutch friend and her 2 girls, who are 9 and 15 years old. They live in the aurovillian community called 'Quiet', which is an alternative healing centre conceived by the 'Mother' in the late 60's. It is a lovely place in a coconut grove right by the ocean. Another Swiss woman, who also works as a Watsu practitioner at the Healing Centre, joined our little scene later. One morning at 5 am we took her to the hospital in Pondicherry after she was bitten by a snake (it was never seen). That was quite dramatic not knowing what it really was. We spent 7 hours there, having her blood checked every 2 hours. She was ok in the end, but what an experience! The hospital was so filthy and so many open, gaping wounds, like I have never seen! I was thankful they had new needles to use for her injections. I hope I never end in a place like this with serious trouble, I tell you! My sense of being alone in the last report totally vanished living in this lovely and affectionate 'tribe' of women.
Auroville. The communities of all nations with a 'new vision for the future' inspired by the 'Mother'. In many ways inspirational and progressive (except on feminist issues). The Matrimandir (Temple to the Mother: white marble meditation chamber with 3 foot crystal ball in its centre) at its heart. It is an island in India. Related and yet, in a strange way not. A mystery!?
This time I was fortunate to connect to some Tamil (south Indian) Aurovillians who run the Auroville Village Action Group (AVAG).The all Tamil staff doing incredible work with the village women. The 15 field workers going out and supporting the various women's associations in the villages. These staff women were very exited about a self-defense workshop but the timing was not good since they prepared for the world women's day (which is here on March 24th). It was the most impressive event. 2000 village women from these women's clubs came to AVAG for the day. They were sharing their devotional songs and dances that they usually never perform but do at home and in their temples. They did skits on their family situations and issues offering some new inspiring hints and insights on how to deal with drunk husbands, battering situations, dowry complaints and suicide threats.
I was lucky to have a translator and was moved to tears by some of their insights and process. What survivors! 'Untouchable women' going up on stage telling of their struggles and victories. One woman telling that thanks to the pressure of their women's association the police actually put 2 rapists behind bars. The only thing that disappointed me was that there were only 10 western women (3 of them I inspired to come) to show support to these incredible women. That is what I mean with many western Aurovillians just not being much part of 'India'.
The 'Life Education Centre' is one branch of AVAG. 25 village girls between 16 and 22 come here for 2 years to learn life skills, like sewing, computer, math and other things. They liked the 3-hour boundary work I did with them 6 weeks ago, so they ask me back to do a full workshop now. Those young women taught me a lot. In the morning before riding their bicycles to school, several of them had to walk 3 km to bring backwater for the family on their heads. Then they arrive at school, sweep up the leaves in the yard, prepare the altar, light incense, bring fresh flowers and then they sing their beautiful devotional songs under the big thatched grass roof. Then their day starts. Hinduism has many deities, they worship as aspects of the divine. Several goddesses, fierce Kali, the creator and destroyer one, and Dhurga, the warrioress another.
As I had a most difficult time to bring them into their bodies and do some firm movements, I sat them down for a talk. Could they imagine Kali/Dhurga to be aspects of themselves? This ensued into quite a discussion with the teacher who picked up on my line of thought. Then I asked them to take a stance like Kali - fierce, strong, and solid. Hey, I was thrilled it worked! Now why did I not think of this before? Yes, they could imagine calling on Kali/Dhurga in times of need! They even sang me a song of Kali. Great. We all were so happy as everyone broke their board!
Then under the grass roof in the afternoon. we talked about sex and rape. I thought we were doing real well as far as communication went (with translator, never is anything to be assumed...), as one girl's comment floored me. She said very confidently, if a man ever rapes me - I would make him marry me. Wow! I was glad the teacher picked it up and said: do you realize that would mean daily rape? Another girl explained to me: we only live for our society, do you understand? Another one yet tells me, that a 16 year old came to visit her uncle's family in her village. He raped her and she got pregnant. Now she is to marry him next month. She does not want to, saying he is a bad man. She wants an abortion, maybe later someone would marry her anyway, she doesn't care. Her parents won't have it though. "What can she do?" they asked me.
They made me promise that next time I come, I spend 3 to 4 days with them rather than 2. AVAG as well would like me to work with their staff and perhaps some may be suitable to continue Instructor Training and take it to the villages.
Tamil Nadu is considered a backward state, less education, more bullock carts, and more poverty.
Peaceful it seems to me now, as more and more horrendous, hideous stories reach us from Gujarat and other northern states. Many of the activists I know are involved in organizing to divert the violence. Those registered for the instructor training from Gujarat are definitely out. More and more cancellations roll in. If they are not overwhelmed with the workload, they are afraid to travel. Since a few are still daring to come and the place in Pachmari, a hill station in central India is reserved, we decide to go ahead anyway. Until the last evening when two out of six cancel because of typhoid. I am disappointed to let it go, but the political situation is bigger than us. So we postpone until winter - "if the god/desses so wish" - as some would say here.
Gujarat ... I hear of Muslim women being raped before they kill them. Unborn babies being cut out of the women alive. Kerosene poured down children's throats, so they burn better. Innumerable, unnamable atrocities. Refugee caps filled with 8,000 to 10,000 (mainly) Muslims who are afraid to return home. Always the women and children are the easiest victims of hundreds, maybe thousands of rapes. One police report has been filed so far (April). Mother India is bleeding, crying. Where is the light? Where are Kali and Dhurga protecting women and children? I remember Gandhi fasting publicly to stop the senseless outbreaks of violence ... Gujaral was his home state.
L. and D. say they feel their souls being assaulted. This is nothing less than ethic cleansing, while business across the street continues as usual ....
Right now am in the state of Maharashtra, 24 hours north west of Pondicherry in one of the oldest Gandhian Ajuvedic clinic/ ashrams. I am the only foreigner amongst maybe 80 Indians healing, cleansing, loosing weight. Naturopathic doctors prescribing for each person food, yoga exercises, mudpacks, different steam baths, massage, walks and prayers. I spend a lot of time standing in line. Since all is in Hindi or Marati I miss a lot, unless someone translates. I stay in a dorm with 19 other women, most very traditional. Some like me and smile, others don't. I realize how much I am not 'institutionalized'. How hard it is to surrender and give up all control/choice. I hear my self-talk very loudly, being alone like this in a crowd. I learn a lot about myself, about humanity, my place in it. Some lessons come easier than others. I feel fortunate to be here, being so well cared for, giving myself time to heal, assimilate and go within.
I still have another 30-hour train ride to Delhi and then I hope to get on a waitlist for my flight to Vancouver, so that I don't have to wait until my reservation on May 4th. I look forward to seeing some of my new found friends in Delhi again before I leave. A long journey lies ahead, half way around our Mother Earth, where I hope to see some of you on the other side ... safe and sound.
Until then
Gitta
taught by
 B.C., Canada, 1 (604) 876-6390 |
Contact Wenlido and Gitta
Women Educating in Self-defense Training (WEST).